For quite a few years I had been dreaming of going to Mustang. Erica and Tsedo had told me how special it was, and Norbu had mentioned that May would the best time to visit. When I ran into Richard last March: “Have you been to Mustang? You’ve GOT TO GO”, this was it, I was on my way to Mustang!
The first week took us from village to village. It is hard to tell which one is the most beautiful and their names were ringing like the bells around the Tibetan horses’ necks: Kagbeni, Chele, Gheling, Tsarang...
Mustang is a desert. It is hot, cold, dry and to say it’s windy is an euphemism. Travelers must be ready to hide their faces and photo equipment in buffs (a light neckgaiter you can wear many different ways). At times I thought I was back in Arizona or Utah, until I would see a village with prayer flags and piles of wood on top of the roofs, green buckwheat fields around and some Himalayan peaks towering the landscape at a distance. A movie maker could not design a better set...
One favorite stop was Geling. We arrived early so I decided to tour the village with Pasang, my Sherpa guiding friend, as translator. We ran into two little girls playing at the door of the kindergarten built by AHF. It was Saturday, so there was no school. After a few songs and ABCs, our little guides took us to the main building where we met Tashi, a teacher who had been there for 6 years. The children attending Geling Boarding school come from poor families in nearby villages. I was impressed to see how well organized everything was: weekly schedules, menus, neat classrooms, tidy dormitories and a green house. Thanks to AHF and other NGO helping Geling, children can receive basic education and good care. We arrived during a prayer time just before the afternoon snack: popcorn today. What a sweet visit.
I had purposely set my travel dates so I could attend TIJI, a three- day festival celebrated since the 15th century. I know that a few years ago, the Gompa was falling apart and the Lobas were struggling, losing their culture, therefore a reason to live there. Thanks again to AHF support of the restoration of the Gompa, funding of the school and of Luigi’s painting restoration, Tiji and Lo are well alive.
Lo was very crowded because of Tiji. Lobas had come from all over Mustang, young monks were most happy with their new shoes and candies, and there were a lot of visitors like me. Everybody gathered tightly around the courtyard where the lead monk- the Tsowo- led the long ceremony which would kill the demons. I sat next to Lama Tashi and felt so fortunate to be watching this old tradition from so close.
After Tiji, we returned to Jomoson via the East route, more remote and less traveled. The lunar landscape had received a dusting of snow overnight, making it even more dramatic. Views of Annapurna, the Nilgiris and Daulaghiri were surreal.
Of my first trip to Mustang I will always have incredible memories: the landscape, the villages, the home stays and the people. Language is a barrier, but smiles, gestures and teas can go a long way. Thanks to everybody for your amazing work in Mustang, precious advice, specially to Bruce for finding me lodging in Lo!
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